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36 Hours in Orlando, Fla.
March 3, 2011
The New York Times
By SHAILA DEWAN
PEOPLE who live in the Orlando area will tell you that there is life here
beyond the theme parks, gator farms and citrus groves. You can’t go far without
stumbling upon a picturesque lake, and the area abounds with small regional
museums like the Zora Neale Hurston National Museum of Fine Arts in nearby
Eatonville. Downtown, the new Amway Center, home of the Orlando Magic, has given
a boost to the night-life district on Church Street, and Orlando’s many
neighborhoods are home to lounge acts, bars, vintage fast-food joints and
brick-paved streets.
Friday
2 p.m.
1) PLUNGE IN
Wakeboarding is to water skiing what snowboarding is to downhill skiing — in
other words, the extreme version of the sport — and Orlando likes to call itself
the “wakeboarding capital of the world.” At the Orlando Watersports Complex
(8615 Florida Rock Road; 407-251-3100; orlandowatersports.com), a beginner’s
cable tow, anchored to poles in the lake, pulls you (and your wakeboard) around
at 17 miles per hour ($38 for equipment and a two-hour pass). The patient
instructor will give you pointers, and you can watch some of the sports’
best-known hotdoggers navigate the ramps and slides.
5 p.m.
2) HIGH DESIGN
Just a few miles from downtown Orlando, Winter Park — considered part of the
greater Orlando area — is famous for the brick-paved streets of chichi
chocolatiers and boutiques along Park Avenue. But across the railroad tracks
near Hannibal Square, a coda has popped up with a bent toward high design. Amid
the new shops and restaurants, you can find Rifle Paper Co. (558 West New
England Avenue, Suite 150; 407-622-7679; riflepaperco.com), the fashionable
Orlando-based stationer, and the studio and storefront where Makr Carry Goods
churns out its minimalist leather bags and iPod cases (444 West New England
Avenue, Suite 102; 407-284-0192; makr.com). For a taste of local history, visit
the Hannibal Square Heritage Center (642 West New England Avenue; 407-539-2680;
hannibalsquareheritagecenter.org), where a collection of photographs and oral
histories document the area’s beginnings as a Reconstruction-era community for
freed slaves.
7 p.m.
3) DRESS-UP/DRESS-DOWN
From the outside, the Ravenous Pig (1234 North Orange Avenue, Winter Park;
407-628-2333; theravenouspig.com) looks like your average strip-mall restaurant.
But with attention to detail like housemade sour mix at the bar and
much-in-demand cheese biscuits, James and Julie Petrakis have made their
three-year-old gastropub one of Orlando’s most popular gathering spots. The
menu, like the restaurant, is dress-up/dress-down, with bar fare like mussels
and fries dusted with fennel pollen ($15), or more dignified entrees like
dry-aged strip steak with wild mushroom bread pudding ($27). Reserve a table or
hover in the bar.
10 p.m.
4) LOUNGE ACT
If the Red Fox Lounge (110 South Orlando Avenue, Winter Park; 407-647-1166) were
an amusement park, it might be called ToupeeWorld. This stuck-in-amber hotel bar
in a Best Western hotel appeals to a broad cross-section of Orlando, from
retirees to young professionals to a drinking club whose members wear identical
captain’s hats. The main draw is the consummate lounge act. Mark Wayne and Lorna
Lambey deliver silky, singalong versions of “Sweet Caroline,” “Hava Nagila” and
other golden oldies.
Saturday
10 a.m.
5) TIFFANY EXTRAVAGANZA
Louis Comfort Tiffany’s masterpiece was Laurelton Hall, his estate on Long
Island, which featured a wisteria blossom window over 30 feet long and a terrace
whose columns were crowned in glass daffodils. When the house burned in 1957,
Jeanette and Hugh McKean, from Winter Park, rescued those pieces and many more,
adding them to what would become the most comprehensive collection of Tiffany
glass, jewelry and ceramics in the world. The collection, including the chapel
with its stunning peacock mosaic was made for the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893.
It is housed in the Morse Museum of American Art (445 North Park Avenue, Winter
Park; 407-645-5311; morsemuseum.org), where a new wing allows the largest
Laurelton Hall pieces, including the daffodil terrace, to be on permanent
display.
Noon
6) A FAST-FOOD ORIGINAL
Devotees of American fast food in all its glory will not want to miss the roast
beef sandwiches and cherry milkshakes at Beefy King, a lunchtime standby for
more than four decades (424 North Bumby Avenue; 407-894-2241; beefyking.com).
Perch on the old-fashioned swivel chairs and admire the vintage logo of a
snorting steer, also available on hot pink T-shirts.
3 p.m.
7) PONTOON TOUR
Orlando is not quite an American Venice, but it does have about 100 lakes, many
connected by narrow canals. Despite the alligators, the lakes are prime real
estate, and at Lake Osceola, you can board a pontoon boat and take an hourlong
cruise (312 East Morse Boulevard; 407-644-4056; scenicboattours.com; $12) that
will provide glimpses of Spanish colonial-style mansions, azalea gardens,
stately Rollins College and moss-laden cypresses. The ride is billed as
Florida’s longest continuously running tourist attraction, though you are likely
to find plenty of locals aboard. The guide will entertain you with celebrity
anecdotes, a smattering of history and a reasonably small number of cheesy
jokes. Tours leave on the hour.
6 p.m.
8)CULTURAL FUSION
The city of theme parks does have a studious side, as evidenced in a blossoming
neighborhood called College Park, where the streets have names like Harvard and
Vassar and where Jack Kerouac wrote “Dharma Bums.” The main commercial drag,
Edgewater Drive, is chockablock with local favorites like K Restaurant (1710
Edgewater Drive; 407-872-2332; kwinebar.com), where the servers’ habit of asking
for and using your name makes you feel like a regular. With an appetizer of
crispy pig’s ear on a salad with peanuts and cilantro ($6), the chef gives a nod
to Vietnamese flavors that abound in Orlando. At Infusion Tea (1600 Edgewater
Drive; 407-999-5255; infusionorlando.com), choose from dozens of loose teas like
“organic monkey-picked oolong” to go along with chocolate-coated Cheerios or a
cupcake. Or you can choose among the scarves, vintage aprons and jewelry at the
attached artists’ collective.
10 p.m.
9) DIVE BAR HOPPING
Stiff drinks and dive bars are an Orlando staple; much of the night life is
centered in the ViMi district, for Virginia Drive and Mills Avenue. Arguably the
king of dives is Wally’s Mills Avenue Liquors (1001 North Mills Avenue;
407-896-6975), with a U-shaped bar and tobacco-stained wallpaper with a motif of
naked women. Across the street is the concrete-floored LMGA, or Lou’s Music,
Gaming and Alcohol (1016 North Mills Avenue; 407-898-0009;
myspace.com/unclelousorlando), where the owner, known as Uncle Lou, wears
headphones to block out noise of band concerts. Farther down, Will’s Pub (1042
North Mills Avenue; 407-898-5070; myspace.com/willspub) has pool tables and
indie bands, often for a $5 cover.
Sunday
11 a.m.
10) SWEET POTATO HASH
You never know what will turn up on the improvised brunch menu — a slip of
notebook paper with a ballpoint scrawl — at Stardust Video and Coffee (1842 East
Winter Park Road, 407-623-3393; stardustrules.com), a hub for Orlando’s artistic
class. Zucchini pancakes, maybe, or vegan sweet potato hash with eggs and (real)
bacon ($9.50). The Web site advertises “bathroom yoga” and “parking lot bingo,”
but you’re more likely to find art installations, an old-fashioned photo booth
and a slew of obscure videos and DVDs for rent on the shelves at the far end of
this sunny, airy space. There is a full bar for the performances, screenings and
lectures that unfold here in the later hours.
2 p.m.
11) FOOL’S GOLD, REAL FINDS
Flea markets can offer too many tube socks and T-shirts, while antiques markets
can be entirely too stuffy. Renningers Twin Markets in Mount Dora (20651 Highway
441; renningers.com), about a 30-minute drive from downtown, puts the thrill
back in the hunt. Just past the main entrance, you can turn right and head to a
vast antiques barn crammed with treasures like meticulously constructed wooden
model ships and 19th-century quilts. Or you can turn left for the flea and
farmers’ market, where home-grown orchids and leather motorcycle chaps compete
for attention. Behind that, there is a field where curio dealers set up tables
with all manner of bona fide junk, fool’s gold and the occasional real finds
that make it clear why so many thrift aficionados make road trips to Florida.
IF YOU GO
Newly expanded and remodeled at a cost of $450 million, the 1,641-room Peabody
Orlando (9801 International Drive; 407-352-4000; peabodyorlando.com) offers
luxury accommodations — and the famous twice-daily duck parade. Doubles from
$175 in low season.
The 17-room Eõ Inn and Spa (227 N. Eola Drive; 407-481-8485; eoinn.com) is a
budget boutique on swan-infested Lake Eola, a perfect base for exploring Orlando
beyond the theme parks. It has a sun terrace with hot tub and an adjoining spa.
Rooms are $139 to $229.
36 Hours in Orlando, Fla., NYT, 3.3.2011,
http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/03/06/travel/06hours-orlando.html
36 Hours in Key West, Fla.
January 6, 2011
The New York Times
By SARAH WILDMAN
KEY WEST, haven to artists and writers, chefs and hippies, is somehow more
Caribbean than Floridian. The indie-minded transplants work hard to keep it that
way. One-speed bicycles weave their way through colorful village streets,
crammed with as many chickens as cars. Happy hour blends into dinner. And
everything is oriented around the ocean, from the fish market-driven menus and
the nautical-inspired art, to the sunrise worshipers who gather each dawn and
the tipplers who wave goodbye at sunset. Be careful or you might just catch what
islanders call “Keys disease” — a sudden desire to cut ties with home and move
there.
Friday
4 p.m.
1) DITCH THE CAR
As any self-respecting bohemian local knows, the best way to get around Key West
is on two wheels. Bike rental companies offer drop-off service to many hotels.
Two reliable outfits are Eaton Bikes (830 Eaton Street; 305-294-8188;
eatonbikes.com) and Re-Cycle (5160 Overseas Highway; U.S. 1; 305-292-3336;
recyclekw.com), with rentals for about $18 for one day, $10 for each additional.
Orient yourself by biking over to the Truman Annex, a palm-lined oasis of calm
made up of two-story whitewashed buildings that surrounds the Little White House
(111 Front Street; 305-294-9911; trumanlittlewhitehouse.com).
7 p.m.
2) CLEANSE THE PALATE
Key West chefs pride themselves on a culinary philosophy of simple cooking and
fresh ingredients. A perfect example is the Flaming Buoy Filet Co. (1100 Packer
Street; 305-295-7970; theflamingbuoy.com), a year-old nouveau seafood restaurant
owned and run by two Cincinnati transplants, Fred Isch and his partner, Scot
Forste. The 10 rustic wood tables are hand-painted in orange and yellow; the
lights are low and the crowd amiable, skewing slightly older. This is
home-cooking, island style. Favorites include a black bean soup, swirled with
Cheddar cheese, sour cream and cilantro ($9), and the fresh catch of the day
($24), which is served with a broccoli cake and tasty mashed potatoes.
9 p.m.
3) SMALL WORLD
You can’t bike a block on this island without bumping into a would-be Gauguin
wielding a palette and paintbrush. There’s an outsize and vibrant arts scene
that’s evident at places like Lucky Street Gallery (1130 Duval Street;
305-294-3973; luckystreetgallery.com) and the Gallery on Greene (606 Greene
Street; 305-294-1669; galleryongreene.com). For a warm introduction to the
scene, head to the Armory, a rifle storage house built in 1903 and recently
converted into the Studios of Key West (600 White Street; 305-296-0458;
tskw.org), an airy, art-filled space with rotating exhibitions, evening folk
concerts, talks by artists-in-residence and drop-in art classes. Expect to find
your barista there, and the bike rental guy and the woman who will sell you a
T-shirt tomorrow. It’s a small town.
11 p.m.
4) MIX IT UP
While Key West night life has long been synonymous with boozy karaoke and
mediocre margaritas, new watering holes like the tiny Orchid Bar (1004 Duval
Street; 305-296-9915; orchidkeyinn.com) are quietly moving in a more
sophisticated direction. Bartenders there take mixology seriously. Try the
St.-Germain 75, with Hendrick’s Gin, St.-Germain, fresh lemon juice and
Champagne ($12). This Deco-cool sliver of a space overlooks an illuminated pool
and draws a mellow crew.
Saturday
8:15 a.m.
5) SALUTE THE SUN
Every morning, a dozen spiritual seekers — an eclectic mix of tattooed artists,
elementary-school teachers and others — assemble at Fort Zachary Taylor State
Park for Yoga on the Beach (305-296-7352; yogaonbeach.com). Nancy Curran and Don
Bartolone, yogis from Massachusetts, teach energetic vinyasa-style yoga in a
clearing of pines, facing the sea. The $18 drop-in fee includes state park
entrance fee, muslin dropcloths and yoga mats.
11 a.m.
6) A TASTE OF FRANCE
An island of transplants means there is plenty to sample from the world over.
Craving France? Stop at Bahama Village’s newest import, La Crêperie Key West
(300 Petronia Street; 305-517-6799; lacreperiekeywest.com), where Yolande
Findlay and Sylvie Le Nouail, Brittany transplants, serve crepes in an open
kitchen. Start with a savory crepe like ratatouille ($10.25), then move on to
something sweet like red velvet with dark Belgian chocolate, strawberries and
English custard ($9.95).
1 p.m.
7) ISLAND STYLE
Just because islanders pride themselves on being casual doesn’t mean they don’t
want to look great. Bésame Mucho (315 Petronia Street; 305-294-1928;
besamemucho.net) is an old-world general store packed with everything from
Belgian linen to Dr. Hauschka skin care, to delicate baubles like tiny beaded
pyrite necklaces. Across the street is Wanderlust kw (310 Petronia Street;
305-509-7065; wanderlustkw.com), a boutique that opened in July 2010. It’s
stocked with well-priced dresses (a navy blue 1940s-style slip dress with puffed
sleeves was a mere $68), and whimsical watercolors of Key West houses by local
artists ($15). For swank décor, check out Jan George Interior Design (600
Frances Street; 305-509-8449; jangeorge.com), a furniture shop that carries
dreamy stark-white couches from the Italian line Gervasoni. The owners, Jan
Oostdyk and his spouse, George Rutgers, landed as tourists from the Netherlands
and never left.
5 p.m.
8) DRINKS AT SUNSET
Skip the hustle of Mallory Square and work your way through the white tablecloth
dining room to Louie’s Backyard Afterdeck Bar (700 Waddell Avenue; 305-294-1061;
louiesbackyard.com), which has a large wood-planked patio that faces the ocean
and the setting sun. A gregarious crowd of artists and New England snowbirds
gathers daily. It’s like an outdoor Cheers.
7 p.m.
9) DINING ON DUVAL
Since opening in 2002, the restaurant Nine One Five (915 Duval Street;
305-296-0669; 915duval.com) has gotten high marks for its Asian-inspired seafood
and ambience — a large white porch that’s great for people-watching. Last
winter, the owner, Stuart Kemp, turned the second floor into the Point5 lounge,
serving smaller bites like grilled snapper tacos ($15) and stick-to-your-ribs
mac and cheese ($12) to a younger crowd. If you stick around after dinner,
Point5 becomes a party, with D.J. George spinning funk and soul and the island’s
gay and straight worlds dancing together under filament lights strung outdoors.
9 p.m.
10) DRAG SHOW
Drag shows are Key West’s patrimony. Still at the top of his game is Randy
Roberts, performing as Bette Midler, Cher and Lady Gaga at La Te Da (1125 Duval
Street; 305-296-6706; lateda.com; $26 admission). After the delicious one-hour
drag show, hoof it down to Porch (429 Caroline Street No. 2; 305-517-6358;
theporchkw.com), a wine and artisanal beer bar that opened in July on the
luminous first floor of a Victorian mansion, just off Duval. Chris Schultz, a
former travel writer from Minnesota, installed a black banquette, painted the
walls a soothing gray and invited an eager crowd of 20- and 30-somethings who
moved to Key West to give island life a go.
Sunday
11 a.m.
11) HAIR OF THE DOG
Late night? Sarabeth’s (530 Simonton Street; 305-293-8181;
sarabethskeywest.com), housed in what was the island’s first synagogue, serves
omelets and tropical juices that are the ideal detox. Can’t be bothered to
dress? Bad Boy Burrito (1220 1/2 Simonton; 305-292-2697; badboyburrito.com) will
deliver a kobe beef burrito ($8) or fish taco ($9) to you, poolside.
1 p.m.
12) SEAWORTHY PURSUITS
With all the shopping and eating, it is easy to forget why you’re really here:
to get off the street and onto the water. Lazy Dog (5114 Overseas Highway;
305-295-9898; lazydog.com) offers two- and four-hour kayaking or two-hour
paddleboard tours through crystal clear coastal waters and into the deep green
waterways of the gnarled mangrove forests. Or if you’re just looking to dip a
toe in the sea, bike over to Clarence S. Higgs Memorial Beach, a strip of sand
in front of the genial beach bar restaurant Salute! (1000 Atlantic Boulevard;
305-292-1117; saluteonthebeach.com), rent a beach chair for $10, and kick back.
You’re on island time, after all.
IF YOU GO
Alexander’s Guest House (1118 Fleming Street; 305-294-9919;
alexanderskeywest.com) is a stylish bed-and-breakfast that’s straight-friendly,
but attracts a primarily gay and lesbian crowd. The 17 rooms, in a gorgeously
refurbished 1901 house, start at $175.
Once used as the base of operations during the Cuban Missile Crisis, Casa
Marina, a Waldorf Astoria Resort (1500 Ranch Avenue; 88-303-5717;
casamarinaresort.com) was radically modernized in 2007 and is now part of the
Waldorf-Astoria Collection. The 311 rooms start at $229.
36 Hours in Key West,
Fla., NYT, 6.1.2011,
http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/01/09/travel/09hours.html
36 Hours in Fort Lauderdale, Fla.
November 24, 2010
The New York Times
By GERALDINE FABRIKANT
FORT LAUDERDALE continues to mature beyond its spring-break days, with posh
resorts now rising along the beach. Meanwhile, Las Olas Boulevard, the lively
commercial strip that links the beach to downtown, has welcomed an array of new
boutiques and restaurants. Sure, a smattering of raucous bars still dot the
beach, and the rowdy clubgoers of Himmarshee Village can be three deep in the
middle of the week. But at the end of a sunny, water-logged day, the resort town
now offers a sophisticated evening that doesn’t involve neon bikinis and syrupy
daiquiris.
Friday
5 p.m.
1) SEASIDE DUSK
There are a slew of beachfront spots where you can have a drink, watch the
clouds roll over the ocean, soak up the sea air and catch the parade of
sun-soaked tourists and residents going home in suits and ties. Two of the more
welcoming places are Margarita Cantina Crab and Seafood House (201 Fort
Lauderdale Beach Boulevard; 954-463-7209), where you can sip a chardonnay and
listen to the steel band, and the H2O Café (101 South Fort Lauderdale Beach
Boulevard; 954-414-1024; h2ocafe.net) next door, if you prefer a bit more quiet.
7 p.m.
2) WATERFRONT WAHOO
Fort Lauderdale’s dining scene is alive and well inland as well as on the water.
The local hotshot Steve Hudson bought the Bimini Boatyard Bar and Grill (1555
Southeast 17th Street; 954-525-7400; biminiboatyard.com) in 2008 and spent $1.2
million to snazz it up. It now evokes a New England-style boathouse, with its
crisp blue and white décor, enormous cathedral ceiling, gleaming oak floors and
portal-style windows. A new outdoor bar is on a marina, bringing in a nautical
mix of young and old who dine on fresh seafood like wood-grilled wahoo ($19) and
yellowtail snapper ($22).
9 p.m.
3) NICE AND COOL
For a cool nightcap, slide over to Blue Jean Blues (3320 Northeast 33rd Street;
954-306-6330; bluejeanblues.net), where you can sit at the bar and listen to
live jazz and blues bands. The club has a tiny stage and a dance floor, should
the mood strike. The music can go from jazz to Caribbean depending on the
evening.
Saturday
8 a.m.
4) DAWN PATROL
Take an early morning stroll along the wide, white beach. It is open to joggers,
walkers and swimmers, and is surprisingly clean. For a leafier, more secluded
adventure that is a favorite with resident runners and walkers, try the two-mile
loop through the woods in the Hugh Taylor Birch State Park (954-468-2791;
floridastateparks.org/hughtaylorbirch; fee, $6 for a car with two passengers; $2
for joggers). Its entrance is only steps from the beach at the intersection of
A1A and Sunrise Highway. If you are not a jogger, take a drive through anyway.
10 a.m.
5) SUNNY NOSH
Finish off the jog at the beachside Ritz-Carlton (1 North Fort Lauderdale Beach
Boulevard; 954-465-2300; ritzcarlton.com/fortlauderdale). The company bought the
former St. Regis and put its own stamp on the property. For a relaxed breakfast
(served until 11 a.m.), either indoors or out, go to Via Luna, the hotel’s
restaurant, where you can choose from a $28 buffet with omelets, smoked salmon,
cereals and fruits.
1 p.m.
6) ECCENTRIC ESTATE
Bonnet House (900 North Birch Road; 954-563-5393; bonnethouse.org) was the
vacation home of the artists and art patrons Frederic Bartlett and his wife,
Evelyn, whose first husband was the grandson and namesake of the founder of Eli
Lilly and Company. They created an eccentric, brightly painted retreat, now a
museum — more Caribbean mansion than Florida estate — near a swamp where
alligators thrived. Window bars protected the house from the panthers that once
roamed the estate, and the monkeys that still live there.
3:30 p.m.
7) CRUISING THE PIER
If you want to go a bit off the beaten track, drive up A1A to Commercial
Boulevard and hang out on Anglin’s Pier. There is a little shopping area for
swim gear, and you can rent fishing poles for $16. Or just sit and have a
coffee. They close the area off from 7 to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays for free
musical entertainment.
7 p.m.
8) CRABS AND PIZZA
One of the trendier new restaurants is Truluck’s by the Galleria Mall (2584A
East Sunrise Boulevard; 954-396-5656; trulucks.com). An elegant room with dark
woods and red leather upholstery, the year-old restaurant adds a bit of glamour
to the popular mall and has a busy bar where a piano player entertains all
evening. It has a surf-and-turf menu, but is perhaps best known for stone crabs.
Dinner for two, about $75 to $100. For lighter fare, try D’Angelo (4215 North
Federal Highway, Oakland Park; 954-561-7300; pizzadangelo.com). Opened in March,
the modern Tuscan-style restaurant attracts a fashion-aware young crowd with its
meatball tapas ($10) and Napoletana pizzas ($11).
9 p.m.
9) MALL PARTY
It may not be spring break, but you would never know, looking at the huge crowds
at the Blue Martini by the Galleria Mall (2432 East Sunrise Boulevard;
954-653-2583; bluemartinilounge.com). But the patrons are decidedly more
upscale. By 8 p.m. when the band is playing, the bar is packed with young
professionals and snow birds, schmoozing and dancing. A newer spot is SoLita Las
Olas (1032 East Las Olas; 954-357-2616; solitalasolas.com), which opened this
year and has a lively bar. Fort Lauderdale also has a booming gay night-life
scene, including the ever-popular Georgie’s Alibi (2266 Wilton Drive;
954-565-2526; georgiesalibi.com).
Sunday
11 a.m.
10) SOUTHERN COMFORT
The Pelican Grand Beach Resort (2000 North Ocean Boulevard; 954-568-9431;
pelicanbeach.com) offers a Sunday brunch from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. The
plantation-style restaurant overlooks the beach, with a big veranda with white
wicker tables and rocking chairs that catch the sea breezes. The Sunday prix
fixe menu ($33.95) includes eggs Benedict, rice pilaf, bloody marys and mimosas.
12:30 p.m.
11) SUPER SWIMMERS
Water enthusiasts should stop in at the International Swimming Hall of Fame (One
Hall of Fame Drive; 954-462-6536; ishof.org). Did you know that both Leonardo da
Vinci and Benjamin Franklin experimented with swim fins? Or that Polynesian
swimmers used palm leaves tied to their feet? That and other swimming trivia are
lovingly displayed at the sleek white building on the Intracoastal.
2 p.m.
12) LAS OLAS STROLL
In an era when shopping in new cities can remind you of every mall back home
with the same stores lining the streets, Fort Lauderdale has kept its streak of
independence: nothing fancy but fun. East Las Olas Boulevard has a rash of
one-off stores like Kumbaya (No. 1012; 954-768-9004), which carries colorful
T-shirts ($20) and equally colorful straw bags (from $20). Seldom Seen Gallery
(No. 817; 954-527-7878; seldomseengallery.com) has a riot of wall clocks (from
$35) as well as brightly painted walking sticks ($20). If you want to take
edible gifts home or you can’t resist them yourself, drop in at Kilwin’s Ice
Cream, Chocolates and Fudge Shop (No. 809; 954-523-8338; kilwins.com). Its motto
is “Life is uncertain. Eat dessert first.” Ponder that with a bag of caramel
corn ($4.75), as you explore the rest of the shops.
IF YOU GO
Opened in 2004, the Pelican Grand Beach Resort (2000 North Ocean Boulevard;
954-568-9431; pelicanbeach.com) is situated north of the main strip, directly on
the beach. The Southern plantation-style hotel has 156 rooms, from $169.
The Ritz Carlton Hotel (1 North Fort Lauderdale Beach Boulevard; 954-465-2300;
ritzcarlton.com/fortlauderdale) opened in 2008 in the former St. Regis hotel. It
has a sleek pool on the seventh floor overlooking the water, a full-service spa
and a wine room with more than 5,000 bottles. The 192 spacious and elegant rooms
start at $269.
W Fort Lauderdale (401 North Fort Lauderdale Beach Boulevard; 954-414-8200;
whotels.com/ftlauderdale) is a sleekly modern hotel that opened last year along
the beach with 517 rooms. It has a Bliss Spa and two pools, one with a D.J. who
plays from noon to 6 p.m. on weekends. Rooms from $289.
36 Hours in Fort
Lauderdale, Fla., NYT, 24.11.2010,
http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/11/28/travel/28lauderdale-hours.html
36 Hours in Naples, Fla.
March 28, 2010
The New York Times
By TED LOOS
IF you filtered all the glitz out of Miami, you’d get Naples,
Fla. This small Gulf-side city has a pleasingly anodyne quality that’s worlds
away from the cosmopolitan bustle found only a two-hour drive due east, on the
opposite coast. Affluent Midwesterners, who have adopted Naples as a getaway
from nasty Northern weather, bring a certain oh-gosh air to town. Don’t be
surprised if you keep seeing the same faces over and over — these snowbirds
might move at a slower pace than the Miami set, but they get around.
Friday
5 p.m.
1) SUNSET COCKTAILS
Cocktail hour is sacred around these parts. As the sun sets, make your way to
Gumbo Limbo, the beachfront bar and restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton, Naples (280
Vanderbilt Beach Road; 239-598-3300; ritzcarlton.com/naples). Order a Naples
Sunset ($12.95), a fruity rum drink, and follow the dipping sun as the outdoor
deck lights up with tiki torches and the laughter of the polo-shirt-wearing
crowd.
8 p.m.
2) WELL SEASONED
Don’t go to Naples expecting molecular gastronomy; restaurants play it
conservatively. Among the more exciting new spots is Sea Salt (1186 Third Street
South; 239-434-7258; seasaltnaples.com), a boisterous place that opened in 2008
and has been praised by magazines like Esquire for its devotion to local and
organic ingredients. The menu, which prizes bold flavors over razzle-dazzle,
includes a freshly made trio of buffalo mozzarella salad ($15) and a
well-marbled Wagyu rib-eye ($42). The chef, Fabrizio Aielli, also has a thing
for sprinkles: porcini powder, cinnamon salt and, of course, sea salt. The wine
list roams the globe, with particular attention to Italy.
10 p.m.
3) EARLY NIGHT OWLS
Naples will never be known for its night life. But even here, 20-something fans
of bottle service can go to Vision Night Club (11901 Tamiami Trail North;
239-591-8383; visionniteclub.com), where three rooms with disco balls and
colored lights keep the dance floor moving. A mellower vibe can be found at
Avenue Wine Café (483 Fifth Avenue South; 239-403-9463; avenuewinecafe.com),
where Colin Estrem, the owner, caters to “young professionals, not the rich
Naples crowd.” Inside, you’ll find patrons sampling the 100 wines and about 70
beers on offer. Outside, cigar aficionados puff away on the patio until the wee
hours.
Saturday
10 a.m.
4) ARTFUL CODGERS
You didn’t come for the art, but the Naples Museum of Art (5833 Pelican Bay
Boulevard; 239-597-1900; thephil.org; $12; $6 for students and children; after
April 25, $8; $4 for students) is a small gem, with a permanent collection that
has a strong selection of American modernism (including works by Charles Sheeler
and Oscar Bluemner) and Mexican modernism (renowned names like Tamayo and
Orozco). The senior-citizen docents are lovingly bossy, and not shy about
steering visitors toward what they consider the best views. A local favorite is
Dale Chihuly, with his giant, pendulous glass chandeliers and sculptures with
creeping, twisting colored tentacles. A special exhibition of his recent work is
up through April 25.
11:30 a.m.
5) MILLION-DOLLAR BEACH
When the sun is strong, Neapolitans hit the beach. Don’t set up camp near the
town pier at Fifth Street South — it’s too crowded. Ditto for anything along the
northern end — too many hotels. For a spot that’s just right, head south toward
18th Avenue South, the last downtown street with direct beach access. (Parking
can be scarce, so bring a pocketful of quarters and try nearby Gordon Drive.)
With flip-flops in hand, a short walk south offers privacy. It also induces real
estate envy. Some of Naples’s plushest over-the-top mansions are along this
stretch of beach, and fairly exposed to prying eyes.
2 p.m.
6) JOLLY GOOD
A faithful adherence to classic pub fare draws a loyal crowd to the Jolly
Cricket (720 Fifth Avenue South; 239-304-9460; thejollycricket.com), which
opened last year along the city’s main drag. Ceiling fans and wicker chairs set
the mood. At night there’s even a standards-playing pianist, complete with
brandy snifter for tips. The kitchen turns out a succulent fish ’n chips ($17),
served with housemade tartar sauce.
4 p.m.
7) DRESS UP
Downtown shopping favors women’s clothing and accessories. Some of the best
shops are concentrated on Third Street South. Marissa Collections (No. 1167;
239-263-4333, marissacollections.com), a high-fashion fixture, just added
mini-boutiques for Oscar de la Renta and a men’s line from the designer Brunello
Cucinelli. Another good retail cluster lines Fifth Avenue South. Stop by
Seraphim Boutique (No. 600; Suite 106; 239-261-8494; seraphimboutique.com),
where Tanya Anderson, the owner, specializes in flirty, fun resort wear — the
kind of thing you’d pick up on a vacation, like a Luna Luz tie-dyed halter dress
for $154. Nearby is Loving Fine Jewelry (No. 640; 239-649-7455), where Jane
Elliott, the owner and a goldsmith, features exquisite creations. A sparkling
standout is the 14-karat pendant by Keith Rifenburg, a local craftsman, that
depicts a tiny tropical scene on a paua shell ($895).
6 p.m.
8) HERE’S THE RUB
Until recently, spas weren’t as prominent as this city’s luxe reputation would
suggest. So the arrival three years ago of a Golden Door spa (475 Seagate Drive;
239-594-6321; goldendoor.com/naples) was a cause for celebration — and a new
reason to visit. Situated at the Naples Grande Resort, the 16,000-square-foot
spa is filled with Asian-inflected details like bamboo groves and teak trim.
There is a sauna, whirlpool tub and a meditation labyrinth, where you can unwind
after an avocado-citrus wrap (50 minutes, $130).
8 p.m.
9) ALMOST MEDITERRANEAN
Gorgeous harbor views and a flattering interior may explain the recent
popularity of Olio on Naples Bay (1500 Fifth Avenue South; 239-530-5110;
olioonthebay.com), a handsome waterfront restaurant. The tanned crowd looks even
darker in the bronze-toned dining room (check out the driftwood accents), which
spills outdoors and overlooks a yacht-filled marina. The Napa-meets-Tuscany menu
includes a roasted chicken with tomato-white bean ragout ($23) and black grouper
with herbed ricotta gnocchi ($29). A chilled milk chocolate semifreddo ($9) ends
the evening on a sweet note.
Sunday
10 a.m.
10) MAKING A RACQUET
The thunking of tennis balls is heard everywhere in Naples, but most of the
courts are sequestered behind hedges in high-end condo developments. That makes
the Arthur L. Allen Tennis Center (735 Eighth Street South; 239-213-3060;
allentenniscenter.com), in downtown’s quiet Cambier Park, all the more
remarkable. The 12 Har-Tru courts are as well kept as a private club’s, but
anyone can play ($12 an hour). There’s a sign-up board to help you find pick-up
games at your level (blue cards for men, pink ones for ladies).
1 p.m.
11) POWER PLANTS
Beaches are great, but a slightly more educational way to experience Naples’s
balmy climate is found at the dramatically expanded and renovated Naples
Botanical Garden (4820 Bayshore Drive; 239-643-7275; naplesgarden.org; $9.95
admission; $4.95 for children; free under 4), which reopened last November with
a focus on subtropical flora. Lush new Caribbean and Brazilian gardens are
perfectly manicured, and the revamped Children’s Garden features a tiny herb
patch and spraying fountains. The colorful butterfly house draws the most
visitors, and as you look for the elusive electric-blue variety, you may run
into the couple you dined next to the previous evening. Par for the course in
Naples.
IF YOU GO
The nearest major airport is Southwest Florida International Airport in Fort
Myers, about 42 miles from Naples. Continental flies nonstop from Newark, and
JetBlue does so from Kennedy Airport, with fares from $197 for travel in April,
according to a recent Web search.
You’ll need a car to get around, and all the major companies rent at the
airport.
The Hotel at Naples Bay Resort (1500 Fifth Avenue South; 239-530-1199;
naplesbayresort.com) opened in 2008 along a picturesque waterway, as part of a
mixed-use development. The 85 rooms, decorated in a comfortable, modern style,
start at $269, and many include kitchens.
The Ritz-Carlton, Naples (280 Vanderbilt Beach Road; 239-598-3300;
ritzcarlton.com/naples) is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year and
remains a Naples mainstay. The large rooms start at $599 and feature Bulgari
bath products.
Three miles away is its sister property, the Ritz-Carlton Golf Resort, Naples
(2600 Tiburón Drive; 239-593-2000; ritzcarlton.com/naples), with similarly
priced rooms and well-kept links. Both hotels feature large spas with extensive
service menus.
36 Hours in Naples,
Fla., NYT, 28.3.2010,
http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/03/28/travel/28hours.html
36 Hours in Palm Beach, Fla.
March 7, 2010
The New York Times
By GERALDINE FABRIKANT
PALM BEACHERS may have tightened their Gucci belts in the wake
of the Bernard Madoff scandal. The Ponzi scheme cleaned out some local bank
accounts, and the recession curtailed the lust for Limoges and other such items.
Still, judging by the perfectly clipped hedges that envelop the manicured
mansions, residents may be doing with less, but not much less. The tiny island,
north of Fort Lauderdale on Florida’s east coast, still boasts some of the
country’s dreamiest estates, where the staff lives better than many Americans,
cashmere sweaters in trademark pastel greens and pinks go for $800, and
Rolls-Royces show up at Publix with regularity in a town where more is never
quite enough.
Friday
4 p.m.
1) THE BIG GAPE
Big money means big house, so rent a nice convertible and stare. For
envy-inducing views of these winter palaces, drive south along South Ocean
Boulevard for about six miles starting at Barton Avenue. Even those obsessed
with privacy relish their ocean views (why pay millions for beachfront if you
can’t enjoy it?), which means the gates and hedges along these mansions are
slightly lower than elsewhere in town. You can catch a glimpse of the Mar-a-Lago
Club, Donald Trump’s former residence, now a private club owned by Mr. Trump.
6:30 p.m.
2) GRANDE DAME
For a sunset cocktail, glide into the Breakers Hotel (1 South County Road;
561-655-6611; thebreakers.com), originally built in 1896. So central is its
location that the hotel has been rebuilt twice after fires destroyed it. The
Seafood Bar has delightful views of the sea. If you prefer upholstered opulence,
head for the Tapestry Bar with its two Flemish tapestries and a grand bar built
from a mantel from Caxton Hall in London.
8:30 p.m.
3) DINER’S CLUB
Palm Beach dining runs from supremely pretentious to casually simple. Many
restaurants survive over decades, and because Palm Beach is a small town, where
the same cast shows up frequently, they have the feel of private clubs. The Palm
Beach Grill (340 Royal Poinciana Way; 561-835-1077; palmbeachgrill.com) is a
darkly wooded, dimly lighted social fixture that is a favorite of the author
James Patterson and almost everyone else. If the mobbed dining room is for the
island’s old guard, the bar seems to attract newcomers: snowbirds deciding
whether to move South, city types longing for a slower, more glamorous life and
locals who want to have fun. Don’t miss American classics like spare ribs and
ice cream sundaes. Dinner for two, from $80. Book before you fly.
Saturday
8 a.m.
4) EMPTY BEACHES
Park on South Ocean Boulevard and take a long, languorous walk on the beach. The
beaches here are flat, wide, clean and wonderful in the early morning when there
are not many people around.
9 a.m.
5) EARLY SNOWBIRDS
This may be a party town, but it wakes up early. A clutch of restaurants along
Royal Poinciana Way are busy by 8:30 a.m., with diners sitting outside and
savoring the sunshine and breakfast. Testa’s Palm Beach Restaurant (221 Royal
Poinciana Way; 561-832-0992; testasrestaurants.com), a sprawling, relaxed space,
serves blueberry, pecan and bran pancakes ($6.25). Around the corner is Green’s
Pharmacy (151 North County Road; 561-832-4443), which offers breakfast at an
old-fashioned lunch counter. Afterward, pick up candy buttons and other
long-forgotten stuff.
10:30 a.m.
6) HISTORY CLASS
For an authentic sense of Palm Beach in its early days, drop by the Flagler
Museum (1 Whitehall Way; 561-655-2833; flaglermuseum.us). It was once the home
of Henry Morrison Flagler, one of the founders of Standard Oil, and the man who
brought the railroad to southern Florida. He spent millions in 1902 to build the
55-room house that became a hotel and finally a museum. Admission, $18.
Noon
7) RETAIL STRUT
On Worth Avenue, where every brand that you’ve seen in Vogue has a storefront,
the real fun is the crowd: women in green cashmere sweaters walking dogs in
matching outfits; elderly gents with bow ties and blazers. But the true gems —
Cartier aside — are the smaller, lesser-known stores that have survived by wit
and originality. Maryanna Suzanna (313 Worth Avenue; 561-833-0204) carries
colorful jewelry by Monies and the Italian designer Angela Caputi — some
earrings are under $50. Across the street, Sherry Frankel’s Melangerie (256
Worth Avenue; 561-655-1996) sells amusing plastic watches for $68. And nearby is
Il Sandalo (240 Worth Avenue; 561-805-8674; ilsandalo.com), where the shoemaker
Hernan Garcia makes custom sandals starting at $195. For lunch, head to Ta-boo
(221 Worth Avenue, 561-835-3500; taboorestaurant.com), with its British colonial
décor where women swathed in white linen with enormous straw hats pick carefully
at the chopped chef’s salad ($15.95).
3:30 p.m.
8) GILT TRIP
It’s a challenge to fill up those sprawling estates with furniture, but there
are armies of antiques merchants poised to try. Antiques enthusiasts can start
at the elegant French dealer Cedric Dupont (820 South Dixie Highway;
561-835-1319; cedricdupontantiques.com) and go all the way south to Southern
Boulevard to the Elephant’s Foot (3800 South Dixie Highway; 561-832-0170;
theelephantsfoot.com), which has a range of English. French and Oriental
antiques at varying prices. Or for a resale find, try Circa Who (531 Northwood
Road; 561-655-5224; circawho.com), with funky faux bamboo, retro and Old Florida
furniture.
8 p.m.
9) MEDITERRANEAN FLAVOR
For a casual dinner in the heart of town, head to Cucina Dell’Arte (257 Royal
Poinciana Way; 561-655-0770; cucinadellarte.com), which is popular with a
younger crowd and is open until 3 a.m. It is decorated in the earth tones and
mustards and peaches typical of the Mediterranean and seems to be busy all day
with families, couples and groups of friends. You can eat outdoors and watch the
crowds go by. Try the pollo cacciatore ($25).
10:30 p.m.
10) PARTY TIME
There are plenty of big jewels in Palm Beach, but they are generally worn at
private parties. The night life for visitors is casual. Stop in for a drink at
the very pretty Brazilian Court Hotel (301 Australian Avenue; 561-655-7740;
thebraziliancourt.com) where the chef Daniel Boulud runs the restaurants. Order
a Bikini Martini, with Sagatiba cachaça and passion fruit purée. On Saturdays a
small band or D.J. plays in the lobby until 1 a.m., attracting a preppy crowd.
Or head across the bridge to Blue Martini (City Place; 561-835-8601;
bluemartinilounge.com) in a trendy shopping mall, where you can sip a martini
and hear the music pour out of B. B. King’s Blues Club next door.
Sunday
10 a.m.
11) HIT THE TRAIL
A flat and easy bike trail hugs the Intracoastal Waterway, which skirts the west
side of Palm Beach, and offers fantastic views of the Marina in West Palm Beach.
Rent a bike at Palm Beach Bicycle Trail Shop (223 Sunrise Avenue; 561-659-4583;
palmbeachbicycle.com), which has multispeed bikes starting at $15 an hour. If
bikes are not your thing, you can jog the route.
1 p.m.
12) STAYING COOL
The Four Seasons, the Ritz-Carlton and others have all staked claims to the
beachfront along South Ocean Boulevard. The new hot spot belongs to the Miami
chef Michelle Bernstein, who recently opened two restaurants at the Omphoy Ocean
Resort (2842 South Ocean Boulevard, 561-540-6450; omphoy.com). The sleekly
elegant spaces are furnished in dark woods with views of the sea. Even on cool
and overcast days during the winter, the lunch restaurant MB Terrace draws a
diverse crowd. Try the seafood ceviche ($14). After all, this is Palm Beach,
where a meal on the beach is a must.
IF YOU GO
There are numerous nonstop flights from the New York City area to Palm Beach
International Airport. Continental flies from Newark; Delta from La Guardia; and
JetBlue out of La Guardia and Kennedy Airport. A recent Web search found fares
on JetBlue and Delta starting at $199 for travel in March. A rental car is
recommended to get around.
The Breakers (1 South County Road; 561-655-6611; thebreakers.com) is a 550-room
stunner directly on the beach, with swimming pools, tennis and golf. It also has
several restaurants, as well as a spa. Rooms start at $499 with a $100 credit
toward activities at the hotel.
The Chesterfield (363 Cocoanut Row; 561-659-5800;
www.chesterfieldpb.com ) is a
52-room boutique hotel within walking distance of Worth Avenue. The rooms are
elegantly appointed, some with flowered print wallpaper and upholstery, and the
Leopard Lounge, with its leopard print carpet, is popular at night. Rooms start
at $319.
The Marriott West Palm Beach (1001 Okeechobee Boulevard; 561-833-1234;
marriott.com/westpalmbeach) is a safe choice if you want to be close to Palm
Beach, with rooms starting at $229.
36 Hours in Palm
Beach, Fla., NYT, 7.3.2010,
http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/03/07/travel/07hours.html
36 Hours in South Beach, Fla.
December 6, 2009
The New York Times
By DAMIEN CAVE
SOUTH BEACH gets a lot of abuse from residents. Too much
cologne, critics say; too expensive, too crowded. But like other American meccas
of decadence, SoBe still has an irresistible, democratic pull. For everyone from
the pale Iowa retiree to the Bentley-driving rapper, it remains the place to
strut shamelessly. And even jaded locals still indulge. They may not be taking
photos. And perhaps they’ll be dressed a bit more causally, but bet on this:
They’re checking in with the classics and keeping up with the latest trends like
everyone else — except they don’t need to flaunt it.
Friday
5 p.m.
1) ON THE BOARDWALK
The beach never gets old. For the timeless South Beach experience, amble along
to the wooden boardwalk that extends from 21st to 47th Street before city
planners replace the raised platform with a ground-level path. Take in the
views: on one side is the ocean; the other, the crumbling, yet-to-be-renovated
Art Deco hotels that offer a Pompeii-like look back at Miami Beach when diving
boards and peach walls still dominated. Then dive into the present at an
of-the-moment spot: the rooftop pool at the Gansevoort South (2377 Collins
Avenue; 305-604-1000;
www.gansevoortsouth.com ). Sip a SoBe Carnival (cachaça, pineapple juice and
muddled basil; $13) and enjoy the views of either the ocean or the party people.
7 p.m.
2) MUSIC, NOT DANCING
House. Salsa. Hip-hop. South Beach has many soundtracks, but few musical
institutions here are as beloved as the New World Symphony (541 Lincoln Road;
305-673-3330; www.nws.edu ), an orchestral
academy founded by Michael Tilson Thomas, music director of the San Francisco
Symphony. Providing mixed-media extravaganzas one night, free student concerts
the next, it manages to be both high-brow and accessible. Be sure to compare the
symphony’s current Art Deco home at the Lincoln Theater to its future
headquarters: the building designed by Frank Gehry going up a block north.
9 p.m.
3) DESIGNER EXCURSION
You could follow the herd to Prime Italian (101 Ocean Drive; 305-695-8484;
www.primeitalianmiami.com ),
where Kobe meatballs are a specialty. But lighter, slow-food fare (at better
prices) can be found across Biscayne Bay at Fratelli Lyon (4141 Northeast Second
Avenue; 305-572-2901; www.fratellilyon.com
). Just the fresh cheeses and artisanal olive oil make it worth the trip. Plus,
you’ll leave with energy to dance. So go straight to the Florida Room at the
Delano (1685 Collins Avenue; 305-674-6152;
www.delano-hotel.com ), where on most Fridays Angela Laino belts out funk
and soul backed by a band rich with brass.
Saturday
7 a.m.
4) SANDY STRETCH
In the 10-plus years that October Rose (yes, a real person) has offered yoga on
South Beach ( www.yogasouthbeach.org
), it has become a 365-day-a-year institution. Sometimes there are as many as 20
people near the usual lifeguard stand at Third Street, each donating about $5,
but on one recent morning, only a single limber student could be seen: Tommy
Tune, the song-and-dance legend who happens to be a regular. “This is my real
love on South Beach,” he said, looking relaxed after his latest session, “it’s
yoga.” And since all that locust posing will make you hungry, head to A La Folie
(516 Espanola Way; 305-538-4484;
www.alafoliecafe.com ), a hidden French gem where a butter-sugar crepe with
a cappuccino costs only $6.50.
11 a.m.
5) VINTAGE AND VIXENS
Sure, you could buy something new. The malls would love you for it. But why not
be both cool and conservationist by going consignment? Fly Boutique (650 Lincoln
Road; 305-604-8508;
www.flyboutiquevintage.com ) is overflowing with few-of-a-kind items, from
Emilio Pucci scarves for less than $100 to classic Levis and even Louis Vuitton
luggage large enough for a move to Europe (though the trunk will cost you
$1,495). Beatnix (1149 Washington Street; 305-532-8733;
www.beatnixmiami.com ) offers a
costume-centric mix, heavy on the polyester. It’s also where South Beach’s vixen
bartenders buy their get-ups. For $149, Beatnix will make a corset-tutu combo.
1 p.m.
6) COOK BOOKS
Miamians sometimes joke that their most popular independent bookseller — Books
and Books — should be renamed Book and Book because of how little residents
read. Regardless, the food and service at its South Beach cafe (927 Lincoln
Road; 305-532-3222; www.booksandbooks.com
) are as consistent as Carl Hiaasen’s sense of humor. The Key West crab cakes
($12.95) are rich in flavor, but not too heavy, and the homemade cupcakes and
Illy espresso might explain why Malcolm Gladwell and other writers spend hours
lollygagging at the outdoor tables. Or maybe it really is the books: after all,
the store did expand last year.
3 p.m.
7) FORE!
Now it’s time for some brawn. Try hitting a large bucket of balls ($12) at Miami
Beach Golf Club (2301 Alton Road; 305-532-3350;
www.miamibeachgolfclub.com ). As
you hook your drive toward the not-so-distant Atlantic, try to imagine the view
in 1923, when the course opened, or during World War II, when the Army rented
the course for $1 a day and tossed smoke grenades all over the greens.
8 p.m.
8) GO GATSBY
Travel back in time again. First stop, the Betsy Hotel (1440 Ocean Drive;
305-531-6100; www.thebetsyhotel.com
), newly renovated to capture an old-fashioned charm that flappers could
appreciate — especially in the surrounding sea of neon. The hotel’s restaurant,
BLT Steak (305-673-0044; www.bltsteak.com
), part of the upscale steakhouse chain, essentially sits in the lobby. All the
better for watching the wealthy and established mix with the young and skimpy.
The popovers and aged beef aren’t bad either, though prices are best forgotten
in a drunken haze: dinner for two with wine and dessert costs around $170.
11 p.m.
9) HIGHS AND LOWS
Remember when the villains of “Goldfinger” cheated at cards, or when Tony
Montana in “Scarface” declared “this is paradise” by the pool? It was at the
Fontainebleau (4441 Collins Avenue; 305-538-2000;
www.fontainebleau.com ). And after a
two-year, $1 billion renovation that may end up bankrupting the owners, the FB
is back. If you can get past the velvet rope, sashay downstairs into Liv, the
hotel nightclub where weekends usually include a big celebrity (Jennifer Lopez
was a recent visitor). If that fails, drink martinis in the lobby, designed by
Morris Lapidus, which was also restored. The famous bowtie-tile floors remain,
as does the staircase to nowhere, designed solely for grand entrances. Finish
the night down to earth, with some cheap beer and pool at Mac’s Club Deuce (222
14th Street; 305-531-6200), a classic dive bar that draws drunks, drag queens,
cops and traveling executives.
Sunday
9 a.m.
10) THE DEEP END
South Pointe Park, at the tip of South Beach, has been treated to a $22 million
facelift, and while it looks fantastic, some of the best sights are in the
water. The pier is a great place for snorkeling, surfing or fishing, with
stingrays, bright tropical fish and lots of colorful locals. You can rent a full
snorkeling package for $20 a day at Tarpoon Dive Center (300 Alton Road;
305-532-1445; www.tarpoondivecenter.com).
12 p.m.
11) SOAK AND GO
Reliable regeneration can be found with brunch and a good cleansing at the
Standard hotel’s spa (
www.standardhotels.com ), part of a 1920s motor lodge that André Balazs
turned into a holistic oasis a few years ago. Massages start at $125 for an
hour, but for $25, try soaking in a private tub overlooking Biscayne Bay, where
cinnamon, mint and honeysuckle flower will attempt to detoxify your soul, or at
least your body. Finish up by the pool with an ahi tuna niçoise salad ($18) and
an Arnold Palmer — that would be half lemonade, half iced tea for all you
non-Floridians.
THE BASICS
With most major airlines flying to Miami, getting to South Beach is easy, which
is part of its appeal. A recent online search found American flights from La
Guardia starting at about $200 for travel in mid-December. Taxis from the
airport to anywhere south of 71st Street in Miami Beach are a flat $32.
Despite the recession, several hotels have recently opened. Among the swankiest
is the W South Beach (2201 Collins Avenue; 305-938-3000;
www.wsouthbeach.com ), where every room
offers ocean views, a Bose sound system and enough gray marble in the bathrooms
to make you feel like you’re in a hamam. Rooms start at $384.
The Gansevoort South (2377 Collins Avenue; 305-604-1000;
www.gansevoortsouth.com ) has 334
rooms with slightly higher prices, from $395, in a building it renovated but
still shares with longtime residents (who use a separate entrance). The enormous
pools are a highlight.
Midbeach — which means more cab rides — sits the Fontainebleau and its $1
billion renovation (4441 Collins Avenue; 305-538-2000;
www.fontainebleau.com ). Rooms start
at $429 plus a $12.95 resort fee.
36 Hours in South Beach, Fla., NYT,
6.12.2009,
http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/12/06/travel/06hours.html
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